Saturday, July 24, 2021
Before bringing my Boy Scout Troop to Alaska in 2000, I asked them how they envisioned the state. They imagined people living in remote wilderness off-the-grid cabins heated with firewood they chopped themselves spending their days riding dog sleds through the snow and hunting for food. As you will soon see, their visions weren't far from the truth.... for a few hearty Alaskans.
The Hurricane Turn train serves as a railroad link for the locals in the Alaskan bush as well as providing transportation for the outdoorsman, weekend warriors, railfans and tourists. I had met a few offgriders myself on this train and always wondered (from the safety of my comfortable train seat) what their lives were like as I watched them detrain and melt into the woods. My wife Terry, on the other hand, thirsted for an opportunity to taste the off-grid lifestyle. As luck would have it, Curt and Renee Rudd had such a cabin. Admittedly, I had a certain number of reservations, most of which revolved around the fact I become medically complicated at night. During our trip planning I decided to jump into the deep end and insert an overnight offgrider experience into our schedule. My mom used to say take just one bite and if you don't like it..... well you know the drill.
Now it was time to take the bite into the unknown. At 8:40 a.m. we loaded our gear into Curt's spotless white truck and made the two hour rain free drive to Talkeetna. At the depot we unloaded our gear and awaited the arrival of the train. I spotted Mark Butler, a "weekend warrior" whose photos I'd seen on Facebook, and chatted with him briefly.
When the Denali Star arrived, buddy I was all over it! My phone was recording that heart pounding 200 ton jackhammer as it roared past, the whistle piercing the cool clean Alaskan air. Denali Star, you say. What? Where was the Hurricane Turn?
It all started July 1, 2020 when the Alaska Railroad combined the Hurricane Turn Flagstop train service with the Denali Star summer service. ARRC President and CEO Bill O’Leary stated, “This consolidation represents our ongoing evaluation of passenger needs and finding the most efficient and safest ways to meet them.” COVID-19 had indeed affected the railroad in numerous ways. Furthermore, the railroad ran at reduced capacity for social distancing measures and passengers are expected to wear face coverings when entering depots, boarding and moving on the train, but can remove them once seated.
As the Denali Star came to a stop, Conductor Ryan Rodriguez stepped off the train and immediately recognized me. Although he is a friend, I unbiasedly believe Ryan is one of the finest conductors on the railroad. I asked Ryan for the names of the train crew and he said Martha Conlan was engineer and Bennie King the fireman. I had corresponded with Martha on and off over the years via social media and hoped I'd have the opportunity to meet her sometime during my trip.
Terry was kind enough to walk the length of the train and grab photos of the consist, SD70MACS 4327 and 4324, GoldStar ultradomes 653 and 651, diner 451, coach 205 (our car), dome 522, coaches 204 and 207, baggage 110 and Royal Celebrity ultradomes 1004 and 1001.
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Renee and Terry unloading the truck at Talkeetna depot |
The Denali Star pulls into the Talkeetna depot as some crazy foamer catches it on video. |
Renee, John, Conductor Ryan Rodriguez and Curt catching up on the latest. |
Ah, the first train ride of the trip! Yes, I was excited! We generally come to Alaska every other year, but COVID-19 had sabotaged last year's plans so I was definitely having Alaska Railroad withdrawal. Our coach was 205, a 1989 Korean built unit, sparkling clean and super spacious with reclining seats and a nice foot rest. It was almost like traveling first class on an airline. The only disappointing part of the trip is the top vestibule doors are now closed due to an across-the-board mandate by the Federal Railroad Administration. I spoke with an ARRC executive several years back who told me the railroad asked for a waiver, but the FRA was basically a "one size fits all" organization. Ah, to take open air photos and feel the rush of the wind in my face.
The Hurricane Turn is almost like getting on and off a bus in the Alaskan wilderness. You let the conductor know your stop, and the train crew makes it happen. Our stop was Gold Creek, which gave us about an hour on the train. Despite an overcast day, I was absorbed by the scenery. We passed the railroad display at Curry, Rotary 3, red outfit car partially obscured by vibrantly blooming fireweed, tank car and caboose 1068. Curry's small shelter had collapsed, but the roof still proudly displayed the rail stop's name. Doing a little unobtrusive eavesdropping, I entertained myself by listening to Mark Butler tell crazy bear encounter stories to a gullible wide eyed tourist. The hour long train ride went by far too quickly, and it was finally time to enter the wilds.
The distance to the Rudd's cabin was about a quarter mile one way. Even with an angel on my shoulder, it was too far for my legs. Curt, Renee and Terry took a well maintained path into the woods and soon disappeared from sight. Before long I heard the roar of engines and a trio of ATVs appeared. Our stuff was loaded onto these fun looking rascals, and then one of them was turned over to me. Me. Really? I've never ridden an ATV. Far too complicated, right? I push a little lever with my right thumb? That's it? Oh how cool was this! Soon I was soaring along the path without even exerting an ounce of energy. I was hooked!
As the cabin came in sight, I instantly fell in love with it. Charming, absolutely charming. I soon discovered the Rudds believed in roughing it easy. The inside of the cabin was rustic yet extremely functional, and Curt quickly had a meat, cheese and cracker tray on the table. Terry and I offered to help with stowing gear and setting up, but Renee said she and Curt had a highly efficient system. I was deeply touched when they gave us the separate bedroom.
The cabin had a refrigerator and stove which were both powered by a propane tank on the back porch. Now this was roughing it easy baby! It wasn't long before Curt asked if we were ready to go for a ride. Knowing I am limited mobility I asked if we could start out easy. "You bet!" was the reply. Terry and I would have our own ATVs. Renee would ride with Curt and would periodically turn around to check on me. If I had any problem all I had to do was stop.
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The Rudd Cabin |
Rudd cabin and garage | Susitna River Bridge |
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| Curt and Renee at the Big Susitna River | Terry and John at the Susitna River bridge | Everything is bigger in Alaska! |
Magical! Absolutely magical! Here I was roaring through the woods all at the whim of my right thumb. For years and years Terry and I had backpacked in some very remote and strikingly beautiful places.... across the Grand Canyon, the top of Long's Peak in Colorado, Red River Gorge in Kentucky, the Appalachian Trail. As my muscular dystrophy progressed I had to close the door to those magical journeys. And yet here we were soaring through the wilds of Alaska as if none of my impairments mattered. When we reached the Susitna River I had a lump in my throat and a few tears fell from my eyes. I was struck to the very core of my being. The joy was indescribable. The door had reopened.
As I sat on the river bank, the beauty of it all came rushing in - the soothing white noise of the river, cloud kissed mountains, gritty glacier sand under my feet. The simplicity and the majesty of the moment was striking. So untouched, so unique it made me feel grateful to be alive. Armed with fishing poles Curt and Renee waded into the grayish waters in an attempt to out fish the other. Terry and I collected quartz along the shore. Finding themselves unsuccessful, the Rudds decided to move on. When it comes to anglers, it seems they will pass on the mediocre until they find perfection.
Alaska is known for its gold mines. Todd and Sarah took over Gold Creek's claims in the 1990's and mined to support their family for over 20 years. Once the gold dried up, Todd turned his talents to building cabins, thus giving birth to Gold Creek R&R, LLC. Opportunities abound for rest and relaxation, gold panning, hiking, river boating or simply living off the grid. As we passed the complex, I was struck silly by an ambulance with moose antlers on the front. I got off my ATV for a closer look and bent over double with laughter by the absurdity of it all. Ambulance horns. It brought back rocker George Thorogood's Who Do You Love? lyric, "You should've heard what I'd seen."
Taking a sharp jog to the left, the trail became more rugged and magnificent passing vibrant fields of fireweed, majestic rock outcroppings, deep emerald forests and a wonderfully playful stream. Renee continually turned her head around to check on me, although there was no need. I aimed for those deep puddles. I'd gun the motor and ride like the wind. Our caravan stopped at a seemingly random spot, and the Rudd's were soon dipping their lines in the shallows of Gold Creek.
I am not a fisherman. It never really clicked with me. And it really didn't matter. Sitting on the rocks, I once again was struck to the very core of my being. The peaceful energetic playful sounds of water testing rocks, the parade of all things green, the primal urge of hunting for fish.....this four wheeling adventure gave me the ability to return to immerse myself in the vastness I thought I had surely lost forever. Curt and Renee had given me a gift I could never repay.
Much to Curt's chagrin, Renee hauled out more fish then he. It was a playful adventure. As for me, my catch would be sand. It may sound looney to the casual observer, but I collect sand from the many special places I've visited. Terry found an empty water bottle and we collected sand from this now sacred spot.
Mounting our ATV's, we began our journey back to the cabin. Unexpectedly, Curt stopped his ATV and his hand went up in the air as if to say, "Convoy stop!" No other communication was necessary as we spotted him immediately. A little black bear cub ("adolescent" according to Curt) was walking the trail ahead of us. We knew to keep our wits about us as momma would be close by. He was incredibly cute and totally unconcerned with our presence. Terry was grinning ear-to-ear. Before I could snap a photo he ambled off into the woods. Magic!
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The Antler Ambulance |
Fireweed field | Exploring God's country |
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| The Master plies his line | Beautify among The Wilds | Good things come to those who wait |
As we approached the cabin, we happened upon the Denali Star. It felt strange to catch the view out in the middle of nowhere. At the cabin someone built a fire in the pit, and we sipped on drinks on the back veranda. The view was amazing! Within a few feet there was a steep drop off which eventually leveled off into a pond area followed by forest and mountains. I don't intend to sound sacrilegious, but I could imagine God sitting here gazing across this valley and saying, "Hey, I did pretty good with this spot."
Next to us was a metal bench and Curt lifted one of the seats thus converting it into a shooting bench. Curt produced a .22 caliber rifle and ammunition and invited Terry to give it a try. Terry never shot a firearm in her life, and I knew she wasn't going to start now. I was truly shocked when she agreed. Call it beginner's luck, but she was soon plinking objects over 200 feet away. "You are quite the Frontier Woman," Curt exclaimed. Terry shot long enough that Curt had to fetch more ammunition.
As I said before, Curt and Renee believe in roughing it easy. Dinner would be hot dogs and beans, right? Nope - steaks, corn on the cob and wild rice. Drop dead awesome! What a life!
After dinner I was delighted to discover Curt was a devote of classic hard rock. What he needed was a play list of "driving music," songs that would help him stay awake on a long drive. For the next two hours I suggested song after song with Curt deciding if they were worthy of the list. I was thrilled to have a kindred classic rock spirit. Terry and Renee spent their evening by the campfire.
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Sipping drinks on the veranda |
Dead eye Terry | More ammunition please! |
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| Five star feast | Here's to life! |
The meal consumed, the dishes done, the songs listed, it was finally time to head to bed to recharge our batteries for another day. It's been said after living as an off gridder your life will never be the same. I whole heartedly agree.