LJ is really into cutting the foam board tonight! His special Dremel attachment enables him to make precise width and depth cuts needed to fit the panels into place. |
This work also creates an incredible mess of foam board shavings with obnoxious static cling properties. Staying on top of vacuuming duties is critical so foam bits are not tracked everywhere. |
LJ puts the foam boards for Anchorage Sand and Gravel and Flint Hills Refinery in place. The initial process was slow, but LJ refined his technique and picked up speed quickly. |
A thin strip gentles slides into place behind the double crossover. Each piece can be easily removed for adding paint and scenery. |
John continues to apply camouflage paint to the rails and cork. Alaska Marine Lines and west Anchorage depot sidings are now finished. |
John continues painting and completes more mainline plus the east Anchorage depot siding. |
John gave GP40 #3015, his first Alaska Railroad locomotive, to Rick and asked if he would be able to convert the DC locomotive to RailPro. Rick accepted the challenge. The above photo shows the frame of 3015 and the bottom of the motor. What remains of the two motor mounting blocks are shown. The copper strip with the blue wire attached (negative side of the motor) had two tabs that projected down to contact the frame in the center. The two tabs have been removed to isolate the motor electrically from the frame (left wheels of the trucks). Power from the right wheels of the trucks (positive side of the motor) are the two white wires on the right. The white wire on the left is for the headlight and is an incandescent bulb. It will be replaced with an LED. There is a screw in the frame close to the end of the white wire on the left. A wire will be attached to the screw for the negative power lead. |
This photo shows one of the screws used to secure the motor in the frame. The screws were too long. The screws were threaded into the die with the excess length protruding from the die. The excess was ground off with a Dremel tool. The die cleaned up the threads when the screw is removed. |
This photo shows a motor mount screw with a flat washer, lock washer, and nut in the chuck of the lathe. A file was used with the lathe running to reduce the outer diameter of the flat washer so it would fit in the bottom of the frame. |
This photo shows the 2-56 tap in a tap wrench, the 2-56 die, 2-56 nut, 2-56 lock washer, 2-56 flat washer, 2-56 screw, and the bottom of the frame with three screws and flat washers in place. The nut and lock washer are not used for mounting the motor to the frame. The tap was used to tap (cut threads) in the four holes on the bottom of the motor. |
This photo shows the frame with plastic pieces inserted (with holes for the screws to go through) to fill in the space of the original motor mounts. The four holes on the bottom of the motor have threads the screws will thread into. The motor is very secure with this replacement of the original motor mounts. Rick ran the motor/frame on the test track and it works well. |
This photo shows the 3015 frame (bottom) and the 3012. The 3012 is DCC ready and has a 9-pin connector. The 3012 has the same frame as the 3015. Rick was able to put the 3015 shell on the 3012 frame and there is room for the RailPro decoder. |